A bit too hot to do too much!

Spent the morning grinding the newly epoxied in tubes flush... they'll need a light sand before painting, but otherwise, look good... very pleased with how its worked... looks tidy, neat and won't let tons of water in.

I then gather the courage to drill yet more holes in the coachroof for the organisers.... got it just right... but bolts were too short at only 95mm (Phoenix is a tough old girl!)

So, after this, I came home.... a few jobs there that couldn't be put off any longer!

big drills!

A few days ago, someone asked me whether I was still enjoying the work on Phoenix, or whether it had become a chore.... I answered truthfully... that I enjoyed it...

But today, i've had some more sanding to do.... and I've decided that I've had enough of sanding!

Fortunately, its not been the only thing I've been doing.... The new drill bits I ordered for the 22mm holes in the dog house had arrived.... and all 3 are now knackered!

I ended up having to drill from both sides, and while the alignment was pretty close, it wasn't perfect... so I nipped to a DIY and bought a big 22mm masonry bit.... that did it!!!

I then stuck a pipe through each hole and epoxied them in.... this all took me the whole morning...

So, I sanded the inside of the doghouse.... god, I hate that job!!!!

Along the way I removed the second traveller for the staysail and fitted a strong U bolt for the staysail sheet... anything to not sand...

This evening i've cut and sanded the block to mount the deck organiser on.... but too late to start drilling hardwood now....

onwards and upwards... more progress tomorrow with a bit of luck... it still feels like I am moving towards her being ready, rather than yet more dismantling... so all OK!

holes in dog house for reefing lines etc

new drill bit required

Following standard wisdom, I measured the location for the holes through the dog house several times before cutting, and then measured again....

And finally plucked up the courage and applied drill to fibreglass.

Hole locations seems absolutely perfect.... but there is one other problem... the hollow box section upon which the dog house sits isn't hollow!

The drill bit finally gave up after cutting through 2" in the first hole and 1" in the remaining 3 required on the port hand side simply by becoming too blunt to cut.... fibreglass and hardwood are pretty tough on drills!

So, it appears that i've got 40" to cut through in total on one side and 10" on the other.... that'll take some doing.... and some new drill bits!... a pic to follow.

I have however found a lovely bit of hardwood in a locker below that is perfect for mounting the deck organisers and the clutches, so brought that home to cut, rather than try in the confined location of a boat.

Up and down

That's what the windlass now does!

It took me a good chunk of the day to do the job though...

Fortunately Vince turned up first thing and helped for an hour.... Which was a god send as pulling the old cable out was definitely a two person job... Thanks Vince!

So, new cable in, wiring up done and... ping!.... Windlass working, both up and down.

Also fitted new stereo... No speakers yet though!

This weekends challenges

Back on board.... Going to try and...

Fit conduits for control lines through dog house
Strip back and varnish interior of dog house (first coat)
Fit windlass cables
Rewire forward nav lights

Should keep me busy!

Honda 2.3 outboard carb clean

Just thought of this post that I wrote a good while ago, and that it would make a useful blog entry.... so here goes.....

My Honda 2.3Hp outboard has been running somewhat roughly recently, and had started to need excess choke in order to keep it running.

A good check over was in order, so I brought it home to check it out.... 

It seems to be a common issue from previous threads on this forum, so I suspect i'm not alone in having this problem...

so.... last night I removed the carb, and discovered it to be really quite dirty, and after a good clean out it ran as sweet as it had ever done.... and thought it would be worthwhile sharing what is involved in detail for those less comfortable just getting stuck in, but willing to give it a go with a bit of guidance....

1] Remove the cover. This is done with the black rubber strap at the rear of the cover. 

2] You will see three bolts that hold the starter cord (recoil system) to the top of the engine. It is worth undoing these three dome headed nuts, and removing the recoil unit, so that the whole cover can be put aside for better access to the engine

3] On the rear of the engine at the right hand side you will see a black plastic 'U' shaped item. This is the air intake. On top of this is a small clamp that holds the throttle cable in place. Loosen this clamp (don't undo completely), swing the small metal plate out of the way to free the cable and remove the cable from the clamp.

4] Now there are two bolts that hold the air filter on. they are on the right hand side, and towards the rear of the plastic air intake. The lower bolt is recessed a couple of inches, so you will need a socket wrench with an extension on it to reach the bolt. You will need a 10mm socket. Undo these two bolts taking care, and withdraw the two bolts one at a time. remove the air intake and place it in a clean location. They also hold the carb onto the engine, so make sure that the carb does not fall off. (it probably won't)

5] Carefully wiggle the carb by hand (don't use a lever or a hammer - its a delicate component!), and once lossened, lift it clear of the engine.

6] The choke cable and throttle cable will still be attached to the carb. maneouvre the carb so that these can be taken off (they have a small dog leg on the end of the rod/cable and just need orienting correctly to detach them)

7] Once the carb is clear, then take real care not to damage the paper gaskets that ensure an airtight fit to the engine and air intake. Unless you are unlucky, then these will be fine to reuse. If they get damaged, then spares are readily available, or you can make new ones from gasket material.

8] At the bottom of the carb is a metal 'bowl' with a 1.5" long pipe as part of the component. This 'bowl' is held in place by a single 10mm bolt. Undo this bolt (remember to take care of the gaskets!). Note the orientation for reassembly. Once removed, then you can start cleaning. 

9] In the bottom of the carb is a metal tube (that the bowl was bolted to), this has a very small hole in the side of it. This must be clear as this is how fuel enters the rest of the carb.

10] Next take a fine wire (soft as you can find) and gently (very) poke it through the hole exposed inside this 'tube'. This is the main jet, so must be clear, but is also very delicate, so take care.

11] Hold the choke and throttle fittings open (where the cables/rods connected) and two round 'flaps' will rotate to show you the main carb body as a cylinder. Blow through the cylinder to clear any dirt dislodged.

12] Finally reassemble, and reattach to the engine by reversing the steps above.

A couple of other tips.... when cleaning the carb, use a lint free cloth.... any threads or fluff left in the carb will cause havoc. Undertake the whole process in as clean an environment as you can manage... with any fuel system, cleanliness is critical. 

Good luck!

tough economy?

Can't be as bad as I thought.....

Wednesday morning I spoke to three companies about a quote for a new engine for Phoenix.... probably going to be in the order of £10k by the time its fitted.

All three promised a reponse that afternoon, but not one of them has come back to me yet, after 2 days.

Things can't be that tough out there!

new engine update

Been investigating the new engine, and it looks like it'll be one of either Beta or Nanni.

Questions are:

What size? - currently have 80Hp, but probably don't need that much, so open to guidance

What gearbox? - options are either PRM or Technodrive... don't want a Hurth, as i've had problems with them in the past

Where are the ancilliaries? - can I get at the impellor when the engine is fitted?

Will it fit? - is the engine space sufficient

Is the alternator big enough?

Do the bearers angle the engine too much, and i'll therefore need a header tank?

Is the calorifier above the heat exchanger - again, will I need a header tank?

And then, do I do the install myself, or get it done professionally?... I like the idea of getting into the engine compartment and cleaning, painting etc.... so may well remove the old one myself... but installing, aligning etc would be nice to be done by a pro.... but can I justify the cost?

And what about where it is done?..... can it be done at Shotley?... or do I need to move the boat?... how, with no engine?... can I get it started long enough to get her down the river to the Beta or Nanni agents, or will Shotley supply and install at the right price?

I've asked for quotes, but quite a few decisions to work through!

engine....

...wouldn't start this afternoon.

I think, subject to the price, we'll probably put a new engine in over the winter this year... it will be a constant source of worry if she won't start easily, plus, a more modern engine will probably halve our fuel consumption, or more usefully, double our range.

It's also a good chance to get into the bilges and get it all cleaned, dried, check the bearers are sound, and paint it all up nice and fresh!

Suspect its not going to be cheap though.... figuring on about £10k!!

switches all in place

what's that burning smell?

Switches all mounted neatly in the new panel

(pic to follow in a bit)

Then I repositioned the batteries and sorted the cabling to them out... its all now very neat and tidy, and a significant amount of unnecessary cable removed, so that should help with voltage drops. Its all also neatly clipped up and routed carefully, so looks a lot tidier. It also shows that I can get 4 batteries in of the size i've got, so I reckon that there is space for up to 440Ah in the future.

Along the way, I very nearly had a bit of a disaster..... I fitted the domestic batteries in the right location and proceeded to reattach the power leads.... and on attaching the negative, there was a funny sparking noise and a burning smell.... eek.... I'd fitted the leads the wrong way round.... and the alternator cable was smoking!!!!!!

I removed them a LOT quicker than i'd fitted them, and redid them the right way round.... phew!

I couldn't get the engine to start afterwards, but don't think its related, as the starter span OK, and the engine turned over... its a diesel, so doesn't have any electrical circuit to worry about.... as to whether the alternator and alternator controller have survived, i'll only find out when I can get the engine started.

These tasks took me all day, until time to leave, so nowhere near as much done as i'd hoped, but still good progress.

new switch panel

Wiring getting tidier

Spent most of the day making the panel for the master battery switches... its finished, and now has its second coat of stain to make it look like teak (its plywood!).... nice trim pieces to make it look tidy too.

Previously the battery switches were a bit dodgy, and not mounted very neatly.... I bought some new switches, and tried mounting them, but the panel had holes in the wrong places, and was also too thick... it was so thick (about 1 1/2") that I struggled to get the heavy battery cables onto the terminals on the back of the switches.... so I cut out big area, about 12" x 12" and have made a panel of 6mm ply to cover it, so that the switches will now be tidy.

This has taken me most of the day, but along the way, i've managed to fit the new compass, including running the wiring for the compass light (although its not connected up yet until the new switch panel is in), and finish the fitting if the panel at the chart table...

I did think that i'd not achieved much, but reflecting, its not a bad days work!

tomorrow I will start by relocating the batteries to their permanent home (decided they won't fit in the locker, so they are going on the platform in the engine room), as they are currently in a cupboard, then fit the battery cabling to its permanent home, which will be much tider. I don't want to start the batteries now, as without them I have no lights, and don't think i'll finish before its dark.... I'll then aim to rewire the engine start panel and alternator excitor circuit, as I can then recharge the batteries and also test the windlass.... but I still need to run heavy cables to the windlass as well... the current ones are a bit on the light side for my liking... I have the cable reay to fit....

so, it'll be a case of seeing how far I get really.

where are we going?

well, now we'll know!

Fitting batteries

I've got three domestic batteries to fit....

Currently they are on the bottom shelf in the engine room cupboard... but i'd rather have that space for storing tools..... so I have been looking for alternative locations.

Also in the engine room is a boxed in section over part of the bilges with a drop in under-bunk style lid on the flat shelf on top, and I did wonder about mounting the batteries on there, but firstly I want some of that space for the watermaker, and secondly, the batteries would block the access to the box and be hard to move because of their weight.

Its a bit tight, and an odd shape, so didn't think I could fit the batteries in there.... but a bit of thinking and I suspect i've found a way.... I reckon I can get a shelf in there, fixed down at either end, and along one side, so secure enough, and then use car style battery clamps to hold the batteries in place on top... will measure up carefully!

Various bits have been arriving.... new compass is here, as are the deck organisers and mast base organisers... another parcel waiting to be collected from the post office.... suspect its the blocks.... winches, clutches and cable for windlass due later this week.

I'm also waiting on the light fittings for down below still.... have ordered a grand total of 11.... 7 of a standard style, and 4 with a dual red white option to provide night vision protection.

Next week i'll measure up for the headlining material and also order the ensign mount and staff, and then we're getting dangerously close to having all that wee need to get her ready to sail again.... not finished... but ready to sail!

some bits ordered

well, I had to buy 'em at some point...

2 new winches (Lewmar Evo 30ST), clutches for three reefs, the main halyard, topping lift, kicker and staysail sheet (Lewmar D2), plus associated deck organisers (Spinlock T50) and blocks...., can now lead everything back with a bit of mounting and fabrication. I need to do this before the headlining goes in.

I've also ordered the replacement compass... the current one is too small (doesn't cover the pedestal top) and has a a huge bubble in it.

I wanted to order a pedestal guard as well, to mount the plotter, as its easier to fit while replacing the compass, but can only find them sold online in the US, and delivery from Edson was outrageous.... £104 !!!!!!!

So have emailed UK agent to see what they can do

I'll also order the light fittings and headlining material soon.... and the paint for the cockpit.... that way I can start getting the deck to look as good as the interior.

Starting to get there now.

double solenoids

One of my coming challenges is to rewire the windlass....

I've already decided to run welding wire from the starter battery (via a switch) down the boat, rather than try and locate a battery and charging system at the bow...

But previously, i've noted that there is a strange combination of solenoids at the windlass, that I didn't understand...

A bit of research, and i've got it sorted!

Application of a low power 12v supply to the energising side of the solenoid via a switch and it switches the -ve power feed over to a +ve... ie provides power to the windlass.... if the switch is 2 way, or 'up' and 'down', then it energises either one solenoid or the other ie reverses the power supply to the windlass...

A simple solution to the problem, and a lot cheaper than a single reversing solenoid.

I also need to add a breaker, as there currently isn't one.... only, not sure what rating I need.... I don't actually know what power the windlass motor is....

I think its a Simpson Lawrence Seawolf 520, but googling doesn't seem to help give me an answer... and i'm not 100% sure that i've got the right model either until I physically check!

The thorny issue of leading back...

for my non sailing friends, that is taking all the lines that control the sails right back to the cockpit, so that in rough weather you don't have to step out of it's safety.

In the pro side....

safely in the cockpit
dry when it's rough
potential for one line to reef the main sail

On the cons side....

More friction making it harder to reef
needs two people if it get stuck
lot's of cash to lead back
needs extra holes in the dog house (the solid 'canopy' over the front of the cockpit) to lead lines through

Currently I have 3 winches at the mast base, and one on the boom.... so these could be removed (or left for emergencies)... i'd need 2 new ones in the cockpit.... at £500 each, this isn't a trivial decision.... i'd also need rope clutches to jam the lines.... at about £70 each, this is also a non trivial decision (I think I need 7 of them... see below)... I'd also need blocks and deck organisers to lead the lines back properly.... another few hundred quid...

However, it isn't really a debate.... the boss doesn't like me heading up on the deck when its cutting up rough, so we'll be leading them back! (and seriously, it IS nicer to be able to reef from the cockpit!)

I have to lead back the main halyard, the topping lift, the kicker, 3 by single line reefing set-ups and the staysail sheet.... i've decided that the staysail traveller can find an alternative arrangement, possibly jam cleats, possibly leading the lines down the side of the dog house... they're too unimportant to justify an extra £200 to get them into the cockpit!

A quick bit of mental arithmetic suggests that the total cost is about £1700

Bottom line is that I need to decide, and get the bits prior to refitting the headlining, as I need to bolt them securely through.... not decided if that means more money now, or a delayed headlining fitting!

Ah.... what's money?

VHF also works

Wired up the VHF.... a bit of a delay as it didn't work to start with.... lots of tracing back of wiring eventually found a single dry joint.... fixed that and it's another bit of electronics sprung into life!

I couldn't resist making up the aerial cable and sticking the aerial on deck.... great to hear some VHF traffic again!

Other than that, spent some time bimbling, doing some tidying up... and then home... enough for one weekend.... and a very successful one at that.

and we have depth!

Connected the depth sounder to power, and ping.... it works!

The reason I am surprised is that I couldn't fit the through hull fitting due to the angle of the hull (the shaft wasn't long enough), so instead, in forlorn hope, I fibreglassed a tube to the inside of the hull, and filled it with silicon, and plonked the sounder on top....

....and it works!

I can't test the log (speedo for landlubbers),) as I can't find the sender!..... i'm hoping that i've taken it home, as they are expensive!!!!

And the wind won't work due to my cowardly failure in reaching the masthead.

instruments in

all the instruments in..... although not wired up yet!.... they'll need to come back out for the panel to be painted yet.

and she lives again, part 2

Engine restarted for the second time after she stopped last weekend with water in the fuel.

50ltrs of fresh diesel added this morning at 07:30, and it's taken since then to get her started!

I'd already emptied and cleaned the tank.... and today did the same with the filters... again... but she wouldn't start.

bled the filters... fuel just fine.... cracked open an injector... nowt.... not even a sniff of air coming out...

so, after starting at the beginning, and draining every section of pipework of air, I eventually discovered the bleed screw on the fuel injector pump.... out shot loads of air, and 2 mins later, she's started....

Now running beautifully on nice fresh fuel....

great to see normal red in the fuel filter bowl again, instead of funny pink, slowly turning clear!

Fuel sorted...

New tank connection now neatly installed and secure.... a real palaver to fit though.... either the floor support beam went in, or the elbow.... together... nah!

So, a little surgery required.... an 1/8 of an inch removed from the beam... its 3" across, so should be a big problem.... but would explain why the previous owner hadn't installed the elbow properly.

The filler cap was a joy compared.... the old one took a few mins to remove... it was well crusted in.... but, totally out of character, the new one slotted neatly into the existing hole.... a good dollop of Sikaflex, and it was in.... and the pipe connection below decks was even reasonably easy.... it came off the old and onto the new without too much of a fight....

Next, I drained the 3 fuel filters (yes, that's 3), and the swirl pot/separator, all of which were full of a diesel-water mess, gave them a good clean, and put them back in place....

so now all that remains is to get some fresh diesel tomorrow, pour it in my shiny new filler cap, along with some Marine16 biocide, pump it through with the manual priming pump, and we should be away again....

Will report on progress!

I also managed to get a skim coat of fairing compound on the holes left in the cockpit by removing the old instruments.... will sand them tomorrow... it's too pate now for a power sander!.... and then mount the new instruments.... they'll need removing again before I paint the cockpit, but it'll be good to get them fired up and tested... bar the wind, which needs the masthead unit installing.

So, a good days progress on Phoenix of Hamble.

going to look smart on deck

Phoenix of Hamble spec

People keep asking me about Phoenix of Hamble's spec... so here it is...

Vessel type: LONG KEEL KETCH RIGGED YACHT
Designer: Stan Huntingford
Builder: C&L Marine
Model: Explorer 45
Year constructed: 1978
Year refitted: 2010 to 2013
Berths: 6
Cabins: 2
Heads: 2
Number of engines: 1
Engine model: Ford Lehman
Engine power: 80Hp
Fuel type: Diesel
Fuel consumption: 4 Litres Per Hour
Drive type: Shaft drive
Crusing speed: 6 Knots
Maximum speed: 8 Knots
Nominal length: 45'
Length over all: 45'
Length of deck: 45'
Length at waterline: 34'
Beam: 13'
Maximum draft: 7'
Bridge clearance: 50'
Hull material: Glass Fibre
Hull type: Displacement
Keel type: Full Keel
Displacement: 17 metric tons
Fuel capacity: 445 Litres
Water capacity: 672 Litres

I believe there were 14 Explorer 45s built, and Phoenix of Hamble is the only one i'm aware of that is in Europe, the rest being in the US.

She was brought in as new, and registered (and VAT paid!) in the UK in 1978... since then she's had 5 owners including us, and has spent a bit of time cruising around Europe along the way...

The previous owner did a lot of work on the decks, and the 240v wiring, and since then i've been finishing the job.... well on the way, but plenty to still do.

Our plan is to finish her, and then when the kids are off our hands (a few years yet!), clear off and sail some blue water for a while.

fuel filling

Phoenix of Hamble is getting her new fuel filling system shortly!

I've ordered the replacement elbow and hose-tails from ASAP supplies, along with a new filler cap.... all to be fitted shortly, and then we'll no longer be filling down below, but will have a nice deck filler cap.

It also means that I can refit the fuel tank hatch (I need to fit the elbow before the cap is put back on), which means that I can stick a few litres of clean diesel in and get it through the filters and get the engine started.

I'm worrying about the watery diesel sitting in the filters at present, so want to get it out and flushed through as soon as possible.

While i'm at it, i've ordered a 500ml bottle of Marine16 diesel biocide, which won 'best in test' in PBO recently for removing any bug from diesel tanks and systems.... so should all be OK before too long.

more varnishing pics...

It's coming along nicely now!

tanks, not masthead

Still didn't manage to get to the masthead..... just seem to have lost my head for heights.... so i'll either have to pay someone to do it, or find a vertigo immune friend!

So.... in the meantime, I started the engine again, and then it stopped!

A quick look at the fuel filter showed it full of water.... clearly the tank still had water in it, even though I thought it was clear..... so I started pumping the tank..... and pumped and pumped and pumped.... eventually, my friend Clive turned up.... and walked off.... and turned up a few minutes later with an electric fuel pump.... hoorah!

So, 160ltrs of sludgy, watery mess later, the tank was almost empty (I only put 100ltrs in, and had motored for 22hrs, so clearly a LOT of water).... it just needed the access hatch removing to finish the job..... humhhh..... sounds easy.

The hatch was easy to unbolt.... just 20 bolts holding it on (yes, 20).... but then it wouldn't lift off due to a floor beam over the top of it..... a bit of inspection showed this to be bolted on... so off with the bolts.... now its loose.... but can't be removed as it won't clear two other beams.... so off they came.... and then its was almost clear, bar a fitting into the hatch.... so off that came.... 2 hours later the hatch came off....

I then spent a pleasant hour with a sponge with my arm up the shoulder in the tank, sponging out brown sludgy diesel.... yuck!

Eventually, the tank bottom was dry and clean....

Just the filters to empty now (and maybe replace the elements), a few minutes work, some fresh diesel, a good dose of diesel bug treatment, and we'll be back in business!

Now home... will order the bits to make the filler secure once and forever, and then it can be forgotten for a while...

a dirty job, but one that needed doing.

The perfect excuse

Another trip up the mast.... I REALLY don't like climbing the mast....

However, disorganisation saved me.... I've left my rivet gun at home!

So.... need to work out how to do this.... do I get a rivet gun from the local DIY, or do I pay someone to do the job for me! :)

moving forward

got a few more jobs done... another 8 cupboard catches fitted... the new wooden panel at the chart table stained to match everything else....

...and up the mast....

made it to within 3 feet of the top and bottled it and came down... blowing a bit too much and not happy up there!

Will try again tomorrow.... it has been probably 8 years since I went up the mast, and I seem to have developed vertigo in the meantime!!!!

I have the wind instrument sender, the VHF aerial and the Tricolour to fit, so don't have any choice.

Thinking out loud

I'm always accused of thinking out loud, so figured why not type out loud instead!

Here's a few things floating around in my head...

I've got the top of the fuel tank fitted with a 90 degree elbow for the filler.... the elbow has male threads on the tank, but the plastic threads on the tank itself are stripped.... however, all is not lost... the threads are in a bolted on inspection hatch.... so.... I think i'll remove the hatch and bolt a male-male connector on and then the elbow can bolt to that.... the only problem will be clearance on the floor that fits in above it.... I either need to find a very low profile elbow, or carve a little recess into the bottom of the access panel that drops in over it. First things first, I need to remember to measure the thread size... think its 1 1/2" BSP.

Secondly, its the mainsail reefing system. Currently there are three reefing points, through a small track on the exterior of the boom and 3 cars.... however, they lead back to a small winch mounted on the boom... so its out of the cockpit to reef.... I also have the main halyard on a winch on the mast' along with the topping lift on the other side of the mast.... so how do I bring all this back?
I've toyed with putting another track on the gooseneck end of the boom, but then the leads would be wrong as the boom shifted....and i'd still need to head to the mast for the halyard and reefing spectacles.... An option is to put a triple block on the gooseneck and lead lines along the boom through this block, up the tack and then down to the deck.... but not sure that the lead along the boom will be very good.... a second option is to simply bite the bullet and buy a new boom with built in reefing... but that tends to deal with the clew only.... so not sure on this one yet.
Either way, i'll need to fit something at the base of the mast for turning blocks (both mounts and the blocks themselves), some deck organisers, clutches and new winches.... also enlarge the hole through the dog house where the lines pass through.

Third thing.... what do I actually need to lead back.... I'm working on the three reefing lines, the main halyard and the topping lift.... and then staysail sheet.... but that leaves the staysail traveller lines a little stranded, so need to work out what to do with them.... added complication is that there is only room on the starboard coach roof for 2 lines due to the location of the garage cover.... but fortunately the main halyard is that side... not sure if 5 lines one side and only one the other makes sense.

Last, but not least, i'm trying to decide where to put the plotter.... latest thinking is to buy a rail mount for the wheel, and put a pod on it with the plotter... that way, it's right at the wheel, so useful for the driver.... but on the flip side only the helm can see it.... maybe that's not an issue, as the plotter i'm planning on getting (Raymarine e7) can repeat to an iPad....

Phoenix of Hamble.... there's still some money to be spent on you!

Another result

connecting a 12V source to the warning lamp on the alternator.... and it pinged into life!

So... despite a dunking, everything on the engine is working just fine!

Just got to sort out the wiring from the alternator to the warning lamp, as that is obviously the problem, and all will be fine.

Along the way, i've put the final matt coat of varnish on all down the passageway..... so that's it.... the last of the last coats in the main saloon is done!!!!!!

(actually, i've a few draw fronts to do, but pretending they don't count)

A good weekend all in all

So, I set myself 3 challenges, and achieved them all this weekend....

And now I need to work out what the next tasks are.....

In no particular order, I think the next challenges are to mount the VHF, the aerial, the tricolour, the wind instruments head, get the instruments in and wired up, final varnish coat on the passageway, plumb in the taps in both heads, fit new loos, fit the new lights, fit kit to take lines back to cockpit, fit new coachroof winches, rewire windlass, varnish sole boards, refit headlining...... OK OK.....

So there is loads to do still..... I think i'll concentrate on the nav lights, nav equipment, alternator, and windlass, as these are the quickest routes to getting out of the marina!

And she breathes again!

Rewiring finished.... Press the starter button..... Round and round she goes.... But not starting... OK, so the starter is good....

Half an hour bleedin the injectors... And press the button....

I sense a bit of life.... She's trying.... And then the marina disappears in a cloud of smoke!!!!!

SHE LIVES!

Running nicely... Ok in gear... Water coming out of exhaust fine.... All looking good.

Only problems.... No output from alternator... Not a surprise... So no rev counter either... Could be the excitation circuit, so not given up yet... And no water temp sender... Could be wiring too.... And anti syphon loop on cooling water has sprung a minor leak... Nothing that can't be fixed quickly...

All in all... A result!

First two nearly done

Varnishing finished (well 2nd coat anyway...) and panel at chart table made up.... Not quite finished, and not yet varnished.... But good progress!

On board... And 3 goals

1] finish the second coat of varnish in the passageway

2] start making up the final panel for the chart table

3] rewire and attempt to start the engine

I've got the bits to do all the jobs... Time is the constraining factor... Have just spent half an hour mentally working out how to fit panel at chart table... And again, avoiding the engine :)

engine bits...

...arrived today, so next visit could well entail trying to start the engine!

I'm very sceptical that she'll start.... I reckon the odds on the starter and alternator being OK are slim.... but only time will tell.

Galley cupboards

Doors all refitted.... Just waiting on a few catches to finish

Forepeak sole

Thats the floor in the front bit for landlubbers!

Looks great in gloss!... Almost seems a shame to put matt on top of it, but it would be a skating rink otherwise!

when is a chandlery not a chandlery?

When it stocks loads of clothes, unnecessary boat goodies and hundreds of different pairs of deck shoes, but cant crimp the ends onto battery cables for you!

Foxes..... in fairness, great stock, but really??? you sell battery cable, but cant crimp the ends up.... what happened to chandleries as I knew them?

so....

I was stuck with getting the second coat of varnish on, in most of the passageway... couldn't do i all, as I would have leant on the bit I'd done finishing it.... but still got a load done.

I also stuck a second coat on the forepeak sole... just to test to see what it looks like.... I may try a coat of matt floor varnish over it, instead of the planned finishing oil....

Started up again

Finally.... Warm enough to stay on board without freezing to death. Its too far to travel for day trips!

So, today i've managed to put the final coat on the galley.... So that is the saloon varnishing FINISHED!!!!

I also managed to varnish the passageway to the aft cabin, along with the berth.... Only the first thinned coat, but its a start....

And finally, I fitted the remaining doors... A few catches short, so they'll need ordering.

This evening, i've been working out the engine rewire. Looks straightforward... The biggest challenge was identifying the alternator in order to work out what the four wires were. Its a Lucas A137, with a standard B+ and B-, but also had two others, with one marked W, which turns out to be the tacho feed, and one unlabelled, which is, I discover, WL, or warning lamp... No excitor circuit... Unless I end up having to feed a battery voltage to B+ given that its now going to be fitted to a Sterling smart regulator with built in spilt diode, hence no voltage at B+.

A few other bits to do, such as refill water circuits, rewire feeds from batteries, and remove excess wiring to starter panel, as well as final check on fuel condition, before attempting to start her.... Not optimistic after her little dunking in early 2012... Since when she was run for just 20 mins to flush her and dry her, along with oil changes twice, and not started since... So likely that starter and alternator are knackered.

Self steering

Managed to get first dibs on a Hydrovane!!!!!

Excellent news, as its the self steering system I wanted.

I've now got to finalise my thinking over how I sort the transom area out, as there's a lot going on!

I need to shorten the mizzen boom by about 12", which shouldn't be a problem as the sail is at least 18" short of the boom end anyway, and then I need to see how the Hydrovane lines up with the davits... if the vane isn't high enough, then I may need to get the vertical element of the davits shortened so that they go through the pushpit rather than over... the key factor may well be the length of the Hydrovane shaft... but i'll only know once I start the fitting process.

The final challenge will be the length of the fitting brackets... the mounting tubes might not be long enough... but its only standard 2" 316 stainless, so not hard to get a longer bit.

Lowering the davits may make sense anyway, as then the LED stern light built into the Hydrovane may well be in the right place and unobscured, so will remove the need to fit one on the end of the davits themselves.

Much to contemplate!

For those thinking what the heck is a self steering system, its a clever arrangement that uses wind direction to turn a rudder and keep the boat on track... basically, its a smart system of gearing that as a vane mounted on the stern blows one side or the other as the wind shifts, turns the rudder, by using simple mechanical advantage.... very effective, and doesn't use any electricity, so saves on battery capacity.

sealed up

All stanchions refitted, sealed and (hopefully) watertight again.... Genoa bolts pinched back up with sealant, and on one side, the bolt heads on the genoa track smeared to add another layer of water resistance. Didn't have time to smear sealant on the other genoa track, as it was already gone 5pm... so it'll have to wait until next time... may also run a bead of sealant around the base of the track a final 'belts and braces'

I reckon there are 4 or 5 other deck fittings that are slightly leaky, so they'll get lifted and resealed. None of them are 'leaking' as such, but the bolts are getting damp, so dealing with them now will avoid future problems.

Then... home....

....and trying to clean my hands..... Sikaflex is evil stuff.... scrubbing brush didn't work... so tried white spirits... nope.... so went for the hard stuff... nail varnish remover (or acetone if you prefer).... nothing!.... eventually, they looked a bit more acceptable, and I had to stop as they were bleeding from scrubbing them. Work will just have to cope with me having slightly grubby paws!

port side done too!

All the doors in on the port side of the saloon too... really pleased with the result!

saloon doors

starboard side saloon doors back in.... excuse the mess... its a work in progress!

Another day of progress

Today, we spent the entire day removing stanchions and genoa track bolts... and we're done.

The cold evening, and also cooking onboard meant that everywhere was a bit humid, with condensation sitting on the headlining.... so I spent 2 hours with a hot air gun getting everywhere really dry, before starting to refit/tighten bolts with lots of sealant.... and then the sealant gun fell apart!!!!

So.... i'll get another gun tomorrow, but bet I have to re-dry everything in the morning :(

So, regardless, we're currently preparing a nice hot curry!

While that is in progress, i've started fitting the nice varnished doors... and they look great!... will fit a few more after tea. Pic to follow of saloon doors fitted so far.

rusty bolts and skinned knuckles

Having arrived down at the boat late friday evening, have spent all day removing the bolts that hold the genoa tracks and stanchions on.... or at least some of them... two thirds of the way down one side.

As ever, a few came out really easily, and a few stubbornly refused. One in particular ended up with me having to cut the nut off with a hacksaw... and as you would expect, the nut was buried in the most awkward and inaccessible location...

It also involved a substantial amount of dismantling of furniture to get at the nuts, so right now, the boat looks worse than when I got here, with bits of odd wood scattered all over the place, and all the guard wire on one side laying on the deck!

So, why?

Because, these things always leak on older boats, so replacing the bolts, along with a good amount of decent sealant is really good preventative maintenance, and also deals with the few that were weeping slightly, and allowing small damp patches to appear.

So, hopefully, should be all done by the time I leave monday afternoon, and a few more minor leaks dealt with, and a nice consistent set of bolts holding stuff down on deck, rather than the current mix and match!

and rest....

31 doors in their final matt finish.... yessss!

now to start fitting the shiny new hinges.

Its even looking like the weather is perking up a little for the weekend, so hoping that I can get up the mast and get the VHF aerial, the wind instrument sender and the new LED tricolour fitted... got to get the cable down the mast... bet that'll be fun!

Still putting off that engine rewire!

finishing the sole

I've spent ages researching what to recoat the sole boards with.... its a tough environment... regular foot traffic, often wet, needs to not be slippery when wet, and on to a wood that is naturally oily (teak).

I've had more advice than you can imagine....

I've ended up with a decision t use finishing oil. Designed for wet environments, such as kitchens and bathrooms, gives a lovely shiny or matt finish depending upon how you apply it, is hard wearing, easy to apply, and easy to add another coat as and when needed.

Will see how it goes...

I also need to do more work on the sole... its getting there, but suspect that the finishing oil will show every little remaining finish... so it must be really back to bare wood.... another sanding session coming on!

Just for reference, i've settled on Liberon Finishing Oil if anyone is interested.

varnishing.... lessons learned

I've today sanded all 31 doors ready for their final coat. That's on top of stripping back almost the entire interior of Phoenix and revarnishing.

Along the way, i've learned a fair bit about how to get good results with varnish!.. here's the benefit of my experience...

Preparation, preparation and preparation.... without it, the end results will NEVER be as good as you'd like... want that glass like finish?... prep and more prep... once you've sanded it back to clean good wood, do it again. And then once more. You can never over prepare. (I guess the one exception is when you're varnishing a veneer... don't sand through it!)

I start with varnish remover... I use Nitromors... I tried others, and they either don't work as well, or leave a stick residue. Various people advise scrapers, rather than remover. I find it nearly impossible to avoid damaging the surface with small scratches.... and that just means more sanding. I do however scrape gently to remove the Nitromors. Despite what it says on the tin, I find that you hardly need to leave it any time.. 5mins is plenty, and then a second coat.. another 5 mins and you are ready. A set of scrapers of different shapes and profiles helps... and keep them reasonably sharp... a small file helps here... also round off the corners of flat scrapers... stops you accidentally marking the wood.

Next comes fine wire wool. Be methodical. Follow a pattern to make sure you've not missed anything.... when the dust lays on the surface its easy to do so.

Then brush the dust off... I use a large 4 inch brush kept specially for his purpose.... now its remove the dust time.... don't get carried away at this stage... a quick brush up is enough.

Then 150 grade sandpaper... I use a power sander... the sort designed for detail sanding... a gentle run all over...

another brush up...

Then a final fine sand with a 200 ish grade....

Then brush up... now get the hoover out... open up the boat, get a breeze through... work from the top of the boat down with the 4 inch brush and knock the dust off everywhere.... it will be everywhere!

Brush and hoover again... then brush and hoover again.... this takes a long while... you NEED to remove as much of the dust as you can... the dust ruins the finish.

Finally, wipe the wood down with white spirit. Don't use water as it raises the grain and spoils the lovely flat finish you've created.

After this, final effort is to use a tack rag to remove the very last remnants of dust.

Now for the good bit... the varnishing...

I use Epifanes Tung oil varnish... gives a lovely finish in my opinion.

A really good quality brush with natural bristles... if its new, I brush the wood with it for half an hour first, dry to wear the bristles in... (you did say you wanted the perfect finish didn't you?)

Then the first coat 50% thinned...

let this coat dry thoroughly... it can take several days if its cool, but when its warm, i've found it dry in 24hrs... watch for corners etc, where remains will stay tacky for longer....

Once dry, I give this first coat a VERY light sand with 400 grade paper to just knock any dust nibs off....

and then brush, hoover, air through the boat, tack rag etc etc

Second coat is 25% thinned..... repeat above advice.....

Third and fourth coats are unthinned... sand and then brush etc between

Final coat.... if its to be gloss, then 10% thinned and put it on carefully avoiding a drying edge...

if its matt (again, I use the Epifanes Brush effect matt varnish), then I don't thin...

More coats is good.... for feature woodwork, i've gone up to 6, but i've heard tales of people putting a dozen or more coats on. One thing's for sure, the more coats you use, the glassier the finish.

I finally have discovered that the varnish takes several weeks to go truly hard... so treat it with care for a while.

And, if you can put the effort in, you'll get a glorious finish....

Now, i'm off to varnish 31 doors for the 5th time.

Sandpaper frenzy!

The sole boards are half back to bare wood, and the seat bases of the saloon berths have a shiny white new coat...

Miserable weather though... May give in tomorrow and go home to finish the cupboard doors instead... Too wet and windy here to do much...

And on, and on...

It's the table's turn.... Back to bare wood.... Tomorrow the sole board begins (that's the floor for you landlubbers!).

Anything to put off getting the engine rewired and started!

gunked out

every single cupboard door and sliding door is now back to bare wood.

a total of 31

hinges still not arrived, so time to finish the varnishing yet!

more varnishing

Remaining 6 doors have first coat.... and initial 14 all have two coats...

first 10 catches have arrived, as has steaming/deck light and LED tricolour.

4 more doors to be stripped back.... start tomorrow!

and on we go....

7 doors now have a second coat.... all shiny!.... too shiny!

They'll look better for the final satin coat. However, I don't have any satin varnish left... so have ordered some. While I was at it, I ordered a few other bits... the hinges (hoorah - finally), the catches, a new LED tricolour, a new combined steaming/deck light and a couple of replacement lift rings for the sole boards (to see what the quality is like before I order the rest).

The chandler didn't have enough catches in stock, but should have them all by next week... will send the remainder foc.

While i'm at it, last week I ordered a bag of hardwood wedges to finally chock the mast up properly... an eBay bargain!

first 14 doors varnished

a 50% thinned coat applied to the first 14 doors.... 6 more to go, but ran out of storage space!

Will order hinges and catches tomorrow..... hopefully can finish the doors and get them fitted the weekend after next.

I can't count...

...because there are 24 doors, not 22....

however, 20 of them are now sanded, rubbed back with wire wool, and wiped down with white spirit.... ready to varnish.

They'll need 4 coats, so still a fair bit to be done.

I'd better order the hinges and catches!

I've also just booked a week off work in Feb to get a few 2 person jobs done... C is coming down with me...

list includes:

reseating the stanchions
removing and resealing the bolts that hold the genoa tracks on
and fitting the mast head gear... that is the windex, the tricolour, the wind instrument sender and the VHF aerial... and while i'm at it, I'll try to fit the steaming/deck light

So, plenty to do.... but motivated to keep moving on, or that'll be another entire season gone.